Fox Float CTD Shock Install

After my great experience on a bunch of Fox Floats in Solvang, when I had a chance to throw one on the Superfish, I jumped at it.  This is the Fox Float CTD, 6.5″ with 1.5″ travel, Kashima Coating.

Install is pretty straightforward–one bolt front and rear, and a few spacers.  I won’t belabor this with pictures showing me loosening screws.  On the Superfish, there are spacers that press into the sides of the shock (and that easily pull out by hand), and there are sleeves that fit inside the shock eyelets.  Those sleeves do not come out quite as easily.  Since a friend PM’d me a question regarding removal of those sleeves, here’s my technique:

Start with a bench vise, and 2 sockets.  The bench vise should be a Wilton.  Not a crappy Wilton, but one of their nice models.  If you don’t have a nice Wilton bench vise, stop what you’re doing and immediately go obtain one, in some lawful fashion, preferably from a local store.

One socket should have an internal diameter (ID) that is larger than the sleeve you’re pressing out, but smaller than the size of the eyelet that the sleeve is in.  The other socket should have an outside diameter (OD) that is just smaller than the size of the sleeve that you’re pressing out.  For me, a 10mm socket and a 15mm socket were just the trick.  Here’s what you do:

The 15mm socket acts as a ‘receiver’.  It holds the shock in place, without impeding the movement of the pressed-in sleeve.  The 10mm socket is just big enough to push the sleeve, without pushing on the shock’s eyelet.  If you gently tighten the vise, the 10mm socket pushes the sleeve out of the eyelet, and into the 15mm socket.  (Those of you who change your own U-joints should recognize this trick).

Here, you can see the 10mm socket, about halfway into the shock eyelet, pushing the sleeve out.

To reassemble those parts in the new shock, I put a light coating of grease on everything, and pressed them back in with the vise.  I then put a dab of loctite on the screws, and reassembled the bike.  Voila.

A note: I’ve had a couple emails asking why I am always greasing everything.  Here’s my basic philosophy: I use my bikes, and expect them to perform.  I also work on them myself (often), or have friends at North Central Cyclery work on them (often).  I’d rather spend more time riding, and less time chasing fasteners that have seized in place.  Accordingly, when I put two parts together, I will do my best to put something between them.  If it’s carbon/carbon, I’ll use some carbon paste.  If it’s mechanical and I want it to come apart, it will be grease of some sort.  If it’s threaded, and I want it to stay together until I try to take it apart, I’ll use loctite.  From years of working on farm equipment, I know all too well how fast a fastener can seize or rust, especially in dissimilar metals.  Hence, I play it safe and lube at will.

With recent weather, I haven’t had a chance to ride the CTD yet (but have noted that Salsa now spec’s it on the Spearfish, for 2013).  My goal is to use Trail for the vast majority of use, and to use the Climb setting for gravel grinds and buff cruising.

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2 thoughts on “Fox Float CTD Shock Install

  1. Looking forward to your review of the CTD, just swapped the RS monarch on mine to an RP2, seems ok but missing the ‘T’ setting of the newer shocks. BTW, the sleeve as you call it is normally known as the eyelet bushing, with the spacers called either spacers, reducers or (confusingly) bushes. The eyelet bush can be had in a few materials, some dont like grease so be careful or the may actually degrade quicker, its a replaceable part anyway, you know you need a new one when you feel knocking through the back end.

    Great blog, keep it up!
    Rich.

  2. Pingback: Cheq Prep. | ridingagainstthegrain

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